We make a framework of walls
Mounting the frame of a wooden house.
For racks of a frame, rafters and beams of overlap it is necessary about 10 m3 of a forest.
Frame house can be built only from dry wood, with humidity 15-19%.
To save on drying - we bought boards and bars in advance. For seven months, he lay in our court in stacks and perspiration, translated by gaskets and covered with ruberoid. To prevent cracking the ends of the boards - painted with oil paint.
And here comes the crucial moment - it's time to start making a wooden frame.
At first we treated the board with antiseptic. To do this, dug in the trench, covered with a film and got a "bath". In a "bath", pouring antiseptic solution, submerged individual elements of the frame. The treatment with the bath is much faster than using a roller.
With a lack of space on the site, you can first build a frame, and then apply the solution using a garden sprayer.
Fig.1
The photo shows the number of timber that was used to make the frame of the walls and ceiling.
Fig.2
The first element of the frame - a binding beam to which the frame is attached. It consists of two boards with a cross section of 50 x 150 mm, which lay on top of the cap.
Fig. 3
The binding beam is fixed to the cap by the studs laid in a monolithic plinth during concreting.
Fig.4
The top of the cap should be even, and the board should be skipped through the flyweight, to give them the same thickness. We did not do this, so the board had to plan on the place.
After installing the strap, proceed to the mounting of the frame racks.
Caution. Frame racks should be installed on the slope, since the level often gives an error. Equal racks should be on the outside of the wall.
Fig. 5
To install racks it is necessary to have high stairs.
Racks are fastened to a binding beam by plates and corners with the help of screws 4,5 х40. Self-tapes for drywall are not suitable, as they are hardened, and therefore fragile.
Fig.6 Mounting the corner rack
Fig.7 Fixing an ordinary rack
Fig.8
At first, corner racks were displayed. Between them stretched a cord that gave the height of the regular racks.
Racks should be fastened with temporary slices.
While the frame is not assembled, the design is not very stable.
In order to simplify the marking of the racks and to avoid mistakes, we made the exact wooden rectangular pattern. For warming we assumed to use mineral wool plates "Rockimin" width of 600 mm. The heater should fit tightly between the racks. Therefore, the racks should stand apart at a distance of 595 mm. Such a width was also a template. If you choose another heater, then the width of the template will be different.
Fig.9
When installing racks, the template is inserted between the racks.
Pic.10
Fig.11
After installing the corner racks, the installation of regular racks went fast. Between the racks of the bearing walls, those on which the beams of the overlap will be supported, it is necessary to install the slabs.
Fig.12
Before laying straps, check the height of the racks, pulling the cord over the top. The binding beam is fixed to the corners by the corners. On it will be leaning beams of the ceiling. The upper binding band consists of two boards 50x150 mm.
Stitch binding is desirable to arrange the center of the rack. To increase the support from the two sides of the racks, we drew two shorts.
Fig.13
After the assembly of the racks and linings, the frame continues to remain unstable. In order for the frame to become rigid it is necessary to attach it to the diagonal slopes - the so-called wind bonds. It is enough to use boards of 19 - 25 mm in thickness.
Fig.14
This looks like a frame after installing all the racks and attaching them with wind bands. After that, we started laying the ceiling beams.
Fig.15
Our mistakes. Wind connections were cut over the racks of the frame. Subsequently, it complicated the wall covering of 11.11.
It is more convenient to put wind connections between racks.

Read more about building a frame house with your own hands HERE
The next stage is the installation of ceilings
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